![]() this will separate the two flaps of fabric to make this part easier. to do this, very carefully clip the fold in the seam allowance only. this will make our bag stronger and last longer. now for the slightly tricky part, but don’t worry! we need to finish the side seams so that there are no raw edges. If hand stitching, I recommend the back stitch because it is the strongest stitch. ![]() Sew the side seams following your stitch line at ½ in seam allowance. Line up your newly hemmed openings so that the fold is at the bottom and the side seams match up. you can find a tutorial on how to do this here.ĥ. If hand stitching I recommend overcast/felling stitches. Take each piece of fabric that forms the opening and fold the top ¼ inch down. I used ½ inch of seam allowance on every side, and I recommend this as a standard seam allowance esp for beginners.Ĥ. I highly recommend you draw both the seam allowance line and stitch line if you are hand sewing so that it is easier to see where you will be sewing. add seam allowance to each side and the top of the bag. ![]() I wanted a pretty tight fitting pouch so that my packer wouldn’t move much, so I made mine smallerĢ. Your bag can be as big or small as you want, so long as it fits your packer with at least 1 inch extra at the bag opening. With the fold positioned as the bottom of the bag, measure your packer against your fabric. fold your fabric in half, making each side is as even as possible. cotton is my personal preference, but polyester thread is also very strong and much cheaper and widely available.ġ. I also recommend a polyester or cotton thread. I also recommend cotton because it has better airflow and moisture absorption than polyester. You can use whatever fabric you like but for a strong bag I recommend using woven fabric that has no stretch. I am using unprinted and undyed woven cotton muslin because it is strong and i had plenty of scraps in my closet. Notes: the fabric you choose is important.
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